WIP: mini NES case

[skylargray]

I found a LED / power button that would be nice if it works but I'm not sure if it will what do you think? http://www.adafruit.com/products/1442#Description
I think it would be nice cause then I would have to run a wire for the LED over to the button area (unless i would have to solder into the led anyways to power the led on the power switch) please let me know your thoughts

That switch will not work because it's latching. The stock switch on the OUYA board is a momentary tactile switch, meaning that the contacts of the switch only "momentarily" close while the button is depressed. Once you take your finger off of the button, the contacts are open again. If you used the switch above, it would be as if you had your finger on the power button indefinitely until you pressed the switch again to unlatch it.

The best sources for things like switches are Mouser and Digikey. Largest variety, lowest prices.

[jimlab7]

That switch will not work because it's latching. The stock switch on the OUYA board is a momentary tactile switch, meaning that the contacts of the switch only "momentarily" close while the button is depressed. Once you take your finger off of the button, the contacts are open again. If you used the switch above, it would be as if you had your finger on the power button indefinitely until you pressed the switch again to unlatch it.

The best sources for things like switches are Mouser and Digikey. Largest variety, lowest prices.

Tyvm I've been trying to get answers for this for a while now
also can i just solder in a new power button and not worry about taking the old off
and would it be any harm to desolder the led off the ouya and solder in wires to a red one?

I do thank you for your time this is my first mod

[skylargray]

Tyvm I've been trying to get answers for this for a while now
also can i just solder in a new power button and not worry about taking the old off
and would it be any harm to desolder the led off the ouya and solder in wires to a red one?

I do thank you for your time this is my first mod

Yes, you can solder in a new power switch without removing the old one.

You will need to remove the existing LED before installing a new one. Depending upon the specs of the old LED versus the new one, your new LED may be too bright or not bright enough.
There will be a current limiting resistor in series with the LED that has been chosen for a certain amount of current which will impact the LED intensity. Different color LEDs have different forward voltage and min/max current specs.

You will need to know the forward voltage and current requirements of the new resistor as well as the existing current limiting resistor value and voltage of the circuit at that point (I assume it's 3.3V) in order to intelligently implement a replacement

Or you can just wing it and see if it works without making any changes!

[jimlab7]

Yes, you can solder in a new power switch without removing the old one.

You will need to remove the existing LED before installing a new one. Depending upon the specs of the old LED versus the new one, your new LED may be too bright or not bright enough.
There will be a current limiting resistor in series with the LED that has been chosen for a certain amount of current which will impact the LED intensity. Different color LEDs have different forward voltage and min/max current specs.

You will need to know the forward voltage and current requirements of the new resistor as well as the existing current limiting resistor value and voltage of the circuit at that point (I assume it's 3.3V) in order to intelligently implement a replacement

Or you can just wing it and see if it works without making any changes!

well as long as I don't blow up my ouya ill prob wing it and if u would what would u recommend?

also u seen the switch u was showing to use has 6 prongs which would i solder to?

[skylargray]

well as long as I don't blow up my ouya ill prob wing it and if u would what would u recommend?

also u seen the switch u was showing to use has 6 prongs which would i solder to?

You *shouldn't* damage anything by just going for it, but proceed with caution...don't blame me if it blows up.

Connect the two switch leads to the two prongs furthest from the switch button on one side only. Doesn't matter which side. Highlighted in green in this image:

[jimlab7]

You *shouldn't* damage anything by just going for it, but proceed with caution...don't blame me if it blows up.

Connect the two switch leads to the two prongs furthest from the switch button on one side only. Doesn't matter which side. Highlighted in green in this image:

Thanks alot man and np I would only blame myself cause im doing the modding xD
I solder a usb hub to my ouya and it was fine for power but i couldnt get any data to read through it and i switch the date wires just to make sure i didnt get them wrong and made sure nothing touched not only that but while it was hooked up i couldnt get my usb powered hhd to read through the original usb and only started reading again when i cut the hub off

[skylargray]

Results of my preliminary CFD (computational fluid dynamics) simulation of the mini NES case's airflow and temperature performance.

The primary heat source here is the Tegra 3, obviously. I have read that it has a maximum TDP of 4W, so I used that figure for a worst-case scenario to simulate heavy gaming or media playback.
Can anyone confirm the Tegra 3 max TDP?

This simulation is room temperature 70°F.

It looks like the performance of this case might be a little better than the stock OUYA case. In this simulation, the processor tops out at about 150°F. I've seen other people reporting upwards of 160°F.
The inlet flow looks really nice. Lots of cool air coming in through the top vents. Good thermal conduction from the processor to the heatsink and into the air.
But I'm not entirely happy with the flow. There are a lot of vortexes, surprisingly around the lower exit vents. There's no clean path of flow from entrance to exit. I suspect that this is due to having two sides for the hot air to escape...it just goes all over the place.

So I'm going to redo this study (takes about 4–8 hours on my friend's quad-core i7 OC'd to 3.13GHz) with only one set of exit vents on the left side of the case. I think this should result in lower temps and steady, even flow from the top right vents into the fan and down through the lower left vents.

The current solution is probably better than stock, but I think I can make it even better, so why not? And now the pretty visuals:




One more screenshot for fun. You can kinda see what's going on better with this zoomed-in view.